THE LAND AND ITS PEOPLE
• For the tourist Botswana is an unspoiled wilderness, thinly populated with less than three people per km² (5 p.sq.mile). Being a very poor protectorate of the British, Botswana gained its independence in 1966 since when a remarkable growth has been experienced in all sectors of the economy including tourism, conservation and wildlife management.
• Located at the centre of southern Africa, Botswana’s 581 730 km² (224 548 sq. miles) is landlocked, bordered by Namibia in the west and north, Zimbabwe northeast and South Africa east and south.
• On the whole the country is fairly flat with an average height of 950 m (3117 ft) above sea level. 84% of Botswana is covered by the Kalahari sand, an aeolian deposit forming the largest continuous stretch of sand in the world, extending from the Orange River in the south to 1° north of the equator. Hilly ranges and rocky outcrops adorn the eastern landscape.
• The Kalahari Basin, resultant of the breaking up of Gondwanaland some 200 million years ago, is filled up with Karoo deposits consisting of sandstone, shales, basalt lavas and thin sheets of coal. The base consists of granite gneiss rocks, 3,5 billion years old and contains a few kimberlitic volcanic pipes bringing about the possibility of diamond mining.
• Situated between 18° and 27° south, two thirds of the country is within the Tropics yet experiences desert conditions except for the extreme northern parts. The major part of the country, being far from the moderating influence of the sea, has very hot summer days of above 40° C ( 104° F) while winter nights can be below freezing point. Seasonal August winds blow from the west, carrying sand and dust across the country, which can obscure visibility.
• Botswana is not a desert in the true sense of the word. Although there are sand dunes in the southwest, where rainfall is very low, the Kalahari should be considered an edaphic desert because the desert characteristics stem from the nature of the soil, causing rain water to drain quickly into the sand. In years of heavy rainfall the dry beds of the rivers suddenly change into water channels.
• Generally Botswana has only two seasons: summer from October to April and winter from May to September. Most of the rain falls between December and February and although dry spells occur, visitors can count on clear blue skies with very few cloudy days. The rainfall is usually in the form of short thunderstorms, which is good for tourists although bad for the farmers. Rainfall decreases from northeast (600 mm / 24 in.) to 200 mm. (8 in.) in the southwest.
• Botswana has no mountains, only hills such as the Tsodilo Hills, Aha and Gewihaba Hills with the Drotsky’s Caverns.
• Due to the lack of rainfall there are no perennial rivers in Botswana, except in the far north where the Okavango and Kwando Rivers enter the country from the Angolan highlands to create the Okavango Delta and Makgadikgadi Pans.
• Four decades of uninterrupted civilian leadership, progressive social policies and significant capital investment have created one of the most dynamic economies in Africa. Mineral extraction, mainly diamond mining, dominates economic activity, though tourism is a growing sector due to the country’s conservation practices and extensive nature reserves. About 20% of the country has been set aside for reserves.
• Subsistence farming and cattle raising are other economic key factors. On the downside Botswana has to deal with high rates of poverty, unemployment and the modern problem of HIV/AIDS.
• Much of the country is savannah grassland with a scattering of thorn and scrub bush. 80% of the people live in the east on 20% of the land.
• Livestock, sorghum, maize, millet, beans, sunflowers and groundnuts are important agricultural products while important industries are based on diamonds, copper, nickel, salt, soda ash, potash, livestock processing and textiles.
THE CAPITAL: GABORONE
• Selected in 1964 as Botswana’s capital, Gaborone grew in 40 years to become a city giving home to more than 200 000 people, mostly Tswana from the Batlokwa tribe who settled there in the 1880's. Gaborone has the advantage of a reliable water supply, its strategic location and its nearness to the ‘Cape to Cairo’ railway line.
• Gaborone is the point of entry into Botswana via an international airport and its road links with South Africa especially for tourists who are interested in the main attractions of the Okavango Delta, Chobe, the Tuli Block and the more remote desert areas.
• Gaborone offers a variety of modern amenities such as hotels, cinemas, restaurants and even casinos and night clubs. The National Sports Centre provides for a variety of sports such as soccer, cricket, tennis, squash and other sporting and cultural events.
• The University of Botswana is an important cultural centre but there are also art centres such as the National Museum and Arts Gallery, a number of theatres where a variety of performances by numerous traditional dance and drama groups can be attended.
• On route in the surroundings the Gaborone Dam and different cultural villages can be visited such as Phakalane, Oodi, Mochudi, Kolobeng (with the Livingston Memorial and the ruins of David Livingston’s house and mission), Thamaga, Kanye, Otse and Lobatse.
• In the vicinity of Gaborone visits can be ventured to national parks such as the Gaborone Game Reserve, Mokolodi Game Reserve, St. Claire Lion Park and the Manyelanong Game Reserve. Numerous drives are arranged and can be undertaken, even in 2WD vehicles, to watch the usual kudu, impala, brown hyena, water buck, leopard, rhino, mountain reedbuck, zebra, giraffe, gemsbok and elephant while evening drives for spotting nocturnal animals are offered.
• Bird watching is an interesting opportunity in any of these reserves as along the banks of the Gaborone Dam.
• Visits during any time of the year can be comfortable yet the summer months from October to April can be very hot especially between intermittent rainstorms.
THE SOUTHERN KALAHARI AND KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK
• Although Botswana is a semi-desert with erratic rainfall, sufficient vegetation and grass cover is available to sustain considerable wildlife populations. It has a unique ecology adapted to nature. Large areas are untouched by mankind except for providing a home to the San people.
• The Gemsbok National Park in Botswana and Kalahari Gemsbok National Park in South Africa amalgamated in 2000 to form the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
• The Mabuasehube Game Reserve area offers a true wild safari experience. There are numerous pans with camping facilities and picnic sites, yet fresh drinking water is a problem.
• Long distances have to be travelled from all sides: From Gaborone – 478 km (287 miles); Ghanzi to Kang – 278 km (170 miles) tarred road plus 104 km (62 miles) tarred road to Tshane plus about the same distance which is extremely sandy.
• On the South Afican side there are excellent amenities at Twee Rivieren. Along the Auob River is the Mata Mata Rest Camp and along the Nossob River, the Nossob Rest Camp.
• Ghanzi is considered as the capital of the Kalahari. The fine grazing and abundant groundwater repute it to be the best beef range in the world.
• The Western Woodlands along the southwestern boundary of Botswana is totally uninhabited, the least known, but with a remarkable cluster of camel thorn trees. The trees and short grass undercover resemble a carefully kept park. Vistors must be self-sufficient as far as water, fuel, a compass and spares are concerned.
• From Kang to Hukuntsi is the last spot of civilization. Further west a 4WD vehicle is a must.
• There is a San village at Ukwi near the Ukwi Pan. The road further northwest goes past the Ncojane farms to the Namibian border post at Mamuno.
• Best times to visit: from March to May. September to April can be very hot while during winter the days are hot but the nights can be bitterly cold.
MAKGADIKGADI PANS
• Makgadikgadi is a place of wide-open, uninhabited spaces under a canopy of clear blue sky. Makgadikgadi salt pan is the largest salt pan in the world: 12 000 km² (7 500 sq. miles) of completely barren flatness. It is a place where the tourist can experience the true peace and serenity of complete isolation.
• What used to be a very large lake was left dry by the diversion of the courses of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers. The pans salt-cracked surface marks the death bed of a great lake. There are numerous pans but the main ones are the Ntwetwe, Sowa and Nxai Pans.
• Vast herds of migrating animals traverse the area. Flocks of birds can be seen during the rainy season.
• Although there are landing strips at Gweta and Nata, there are few service facilities. For 4WD parties the roads are accessible through Francistown, the gateway to northern Botswana.
• Francistown is considered to be the capital of the north and is the second-largest urban centre of Botswana. It was founded after the discovery of gold at Tati, by Karl Mauch and named after Daniel Francis, who established a town by selling freehold stands.
• Francistown is a natural growth point at the head of the railway line to Zimbabwe. Not gold but considerable commercial and industrial enterprises contribute to this urban settlement which offers high quality services for tourists and travellers.
• The Nata Bird Sanctuary, 230 km² (90 sq. miles), lies north of Francistown. This community based project is managed by a board of trustees from four nearby villages. It is an important breeding area for flamingoes and pelicans.
• Nata traditional village, Sowa Pan Lodge and Nata Lodge are popular ports of call in these otherwise remote areas. Sowa Pan, with little islands such as Kubu Island, are worth a thorough visit. This island is a national monument with fossil beaches, stunted baobab trees, mysterious stone walls and rocks stained white with fossilized bird droppings.
• Routes to the islands require 4WD but special tours can be organized. There is evidence of ancient human habitation in many spots, especially at Mosu, south of Sowa Pan. Mosu is a scenic palm-lined village on the south side of Sowa Pan.
• On the route to Maun the village of Gweta, near the Ntwetwe Pan, is famous for the appearance of bullfrogs. The Gweta Rest Camp and Jack’s Camp are noteworthy.
• In the area of the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park there are campsites such as Xhumaga and Njuca. On trails in the area the baobab trees are points of navigation even for todays travellers. Important places worth seeing are Green’s Baobab, the Post Office Tree and Baines’ Baobabs.
• Nxai Pan is covered with short sweet grass – good grazing for both springbok and impala but also for large herds of gemsbok, giraffe, kudu, hartebeest, zebra and the migratory blue wildebeest. Lion, leopard and hyena, as well as a remarkable array of birds await the tourist.
• Best times to visit: for game viewing December to July and for water birds from January to March.
EASTERN BOTSWANA
• The landscape has a variety of hills and kopjes and is more suitable for agriculture.
• Almost 80% of Botswana’s population live in this area. The most important towns are in this region: Goborone, Mahalapye, Palapye, Selebi-Phikwe and Francistown.
• The major part of the region consists of the Tuli Block, which includes an area of 120 000 ha (300 000 acres) of game reserves, hunting and conservation areas. Originally ceded to the British government by chief Khama III in 1885, it was later transferred to Cecil Rhodes’ British South Africa Co. (BSAC) who divided the Tuli Block into lots which were sold to European farmers.
• Over a period of time the North-East Tuli Game Reserve was created, consisting of several private reserves such as Mashatu and Tuli Game reserves.
• The Mashatu Game Reserve boasts 46 000 ha (113 000 acres) of picturesque unspoilt countryside, 350 bird species and over 800 elephants - the largest elephant population on private land in the world.
• At the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers, the most easterly point of Botswana, is also the place where the boundaries of Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe meet. Luxurious chalets and tents await the visitor in nearby Majale, Thakadu, Tuli Safari Lodge and Nokalodi Tented Camp.
• Reserves in the Tuli Block are easily accessible from a number of routes from South Africa. Many of the roads are gravel and suitable for sedan cars.
• At Solomon’s Wall, the Lepokole Hills and Tswapong Hills, the granite hills are of great historical and archaeological interest and worth a visit. Care should be taken because the roads are on private property.
• Towns in this area are: Mahalapye, Shoshong with John Mackenzie’s Mission Station, Palapye with coal and a power station and Selebi-Phikwe (copper and nickel).
• Best times for game viewing : April to December when animals congregate around permanent waterpoints.
CENTRAL KALAHARI
• The heart of the Kalahari - a flat sea of sand and yet a wealth of wildlife and breathtaking landscapes littered by the broken, sun-bleached wagons of the 19th century explorers.
• The Central Kalahari Game Reserve was established in 1961, covers 52 800 km² (20 000 sq. miles) and was originally created to cater for the nomadic Bushmen. They now reside in small villages in the reserve.
• Deception Valley is all that remains of a dried up riverbed. Short grass with occasional islands of dotted bushy trees; usually umbrella thorn and buffalo thorn trees.
• Drinking water is limited, only available at the Game Scout |
